![]() This stuff is really strong!) All I had to do was brush the wood off a little bit to clear it of dust and then I carefully ran a small bead of the Hot Stuff down the piece. (Just don’t glue your fingers to whatever you’re working on. This is some pretty awesome glue and a very little of it goes a long way. I have some good strong Hot Stuff (#862-000-003). Since it had cracked the entire length of what little wood there was, I knew I’d need to glue it back together. This is the rounded section that the barrel is seated over. In the process of trying to get it taken off, I had cracked the inside groove of the wooden forearm. When I had been taking the gun apart in a previous article, the forend cap had been rusted in place. Here is Copy & Paste from Brownell's with details on a shotgun forearm crack repair. Set up is key and don't get it on your fingers! You'll be glued to the wood. There will be no "glue line" if done correctly.the "glue line" is what you normally see with a crack repair. THIS IS CORRECT PRODUCT for a crack.there are three thicknesses of HOT STUFF.thinest for tiny crack etc. Acraglass will bond to metal and about anything else so be sure to clean off the excess before it sets up on the outside.īrownell's HOT STUFF is the correct product.Do a google search to find. A good vacuum for a two or three minutes should do the trick. That will remove any air from the crack and the outside pressure will replace the air that was in the crack with the glass mixture. Put the mixture in and over the crack, kids playdough will work great for building a dam to keep the mixture where you need it, put the stock in the bag with the end sealed up around the vacumn hose and turn the unit on. A heavy plastic bag to put the stock in should work if done properly. A good vacuum cleaner may work if you don't have access to a vacuum unit or know an air conditioner repairman that will help you out. The best way to get the mixture down into the crack in the stock, in my opinion, is with vacuum. They also have a thinner that is available. Only the front bottom of the action, the back of the recoil and the rear bottom of the tang need to make contact with the stock.If you want a bond that will actually hold, then I would recommend the Acraglas that is sold by Brownell's Inc. The action rails don?t need to make contact with the stock on the bottom. If the tangs moves you are bending the action. There should be no movement in the tang when you tighten the rear screw. Then put in the rear action screw and tighten slightly. When the barreled action is placed into the stock tighten the front screw first and tight. ![]() Espically the bottom or front should not make contact with the stock. With a Mauser action the recoil lug should only make contact with the stock at the rear of the recoil lug, not the front, sides or bottom. You need the stock at the tang inletted with a slight relief cut so the stock doesn?t absorb any recoil at this point. You need a propperly bedded recoil lug so the action won?t setback in the stock. You need two things to prevent this from happening. A cracked stock at the rear of the tang is probably a bedding issue.
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